Tuesday, 14 June 2016

Thoughts From Closer to Home

I love to travel. I’ve never been a nervous flyer, don’t get carsick and have travelled alone since childhood.  So why this morning when the alarm goes off do I have a ball of anxiety in the pit of my stomach that stops me from even having my morning tea?

I’ve got cabin fever. I know I need to leave the island. I am like one of those animals you see at the zoo that paces the perimeter of its space, frustrated by the barriers that keep in from moving on. I love living in Malta this time. The rock is treating me better now than it did when I was a spotty, chubby adolescent that didn’t fit in. Apparently its OK to be a spotty chubby adult that doesn’t fit in- somehow this time I go unnoticed.

I need to go in to the office for a couple of hours before I fly. I haven’t put everything into place for what will be my longest time away since I started the job a year ago today. A lot can happen here in a week and a half and even though the trip is for work I’m already wondering what will be waiting for me when I get back.

There is a car on fire in one of the tunnels on the way to the airport but I’m just finishing a good book so I hardly notice the detours and then we are pulling up outside departures. I love airports. I always get to the airport early because I hate rushing or being late, but airports have always been one of my favourite places. Perhaps it’s because I feel they serve as a little snapshot of society. I don’t know if other people notice it but airports are like caricatures of the places they represent. Bangkok, Phnom Penh, Antananarivo, Paris, London on and on like postcards of their respective societies.

Or perhaps because in an airport I am invisible- free to indulge in one of my very favourite pass times; people watching.  People watching is, of course, the most elegant way of saying it. What I actually do is eavesdrop into other people lives. Snap shots of families, couples, school groups, friendships all mixed together, all on display. I think ‘people watching’ is one of my greatest flaws. It comes, I suspect, from so much time spent alone in formative years. I am certainly a lone traveller- it is rare that I share the routes I map out with another person and then it is not the same. I’m distracted by my companions, unable to indulge- I become fodder for someone else’s picture of society and am no longer an observer to it.

I’ve never had a problem being alone. I don’t associate being alone with being lonely. On the contrary- the loneliest times in my life have been those where I’m surrounded by people or in the company of the closest family or friends. That moment you realise that your experience or impression or understanding of something is so different from that of those who are supposed to be your nearest and dearest. That’s when I am so acutely aware of my subjective reality that I truly feel alone. Sitting in restaurants, theatres, galleries, walking through cities and villages day or night by myself- these are the times I have honed my people watching skills.

I never dwell too long on one interaction, it feels intrusive and I always think people can tell if you are paying them attention, even if they can’t see you. I flit from one social interaction to another like a fly, never settling for long, just long enough to add the faintest impression of human interaction into the tapestry I’ve created in my mind.



I’m a noticer of things- I think that makes a difference too. I don’t have to try too hard to notice someone changing their body language or tone. I notice things that are out of place, misaligned, smudged or newly clean. I can’t walk past a pin or a penny without stooping down, I still avoid cracks and take stock of my environment whenever I settle anywhere.  Whether it’s plane seats, café’s or parks you can rest assured that if I have been sitting there for more than 5 minutes I’ve made a subconscious mental note of random things around me- where are the exits, how do the windows work, where is the nearest group of people, what colour is the sky today, what shape are the clouds, what does it smell like, how do I feel here?

Today was a good day for observing. The plane I was boarding for Frankfurt was full of Americans. They make it too easy- you don’t even have to try. It makes me smile the way they speak loudly and project it to the room, like they are inviting you to participate in the conversation. The Maltese are loud too of course, and I count myself among the loudest at times, but that is a kind of passionate, excited loud, whereas the Americans just seem to amplify a regular conversation as thought welcoming you in. The couple beside me had been on a tour of Europe, last stop Sicily, and were recounting to another American couple, who I gather they had crossed paths with on the trip, the quaint and comical duo of driver and guide who took them up Etna the day before, scolding one another for paying too much attention to women and not enough to the road. I have no idea what they thought of Sicily or Etna but I know that Mario and his counterpart will be spoken of in Seattle for years to come.

When I was in my teens and early twenties it was always me who got stopped at security. I was taking my shoes off to be whipped with that strange cloth wand long before it was standard practice. Perhaps it was the sight of me alone in places where I stood out, or my sullen air or my heavy boots but it was a running joke with my family that if anyone were going to get pulled to one side it would be me. That is no longer the case. Like all frequent travellers I have the procedures down pat and security is never an issue.  I know this is not the case for everyone. I wonder whether it will ever be the case again that it is faces like mine that attract the attention.

Security issues at airports have burst my bubble a little though. My favourite places where cultures collide, where the basest human emotions are put on display, where crowds gather and I become invisible are now marred by an undercurrent of tension. Even if I am not, people are nervous. You can see it in the way they look at one another, the manner in which they gather, the offhand things they say. I’m always ashamed of myself when I think of such things because surely that’s the point. It’s like that game we played as children where to think of the game was to loose it, and if you pointed out to your friends that you had lost, you made them think of it too, and therefore they also lost ‘the game’. The winners of the game were always those who didn’t even know it existed, or were so uninterested in it that it never drifted, unbidden, into their consciousness. Fear is like that. Even thinking about it plays into it- acknowledging it makes you loose the game. Then, as soon as one person has referred to it, we are all reminded, prompted to awareness, and we all loose the game. I hope one day we will all forget we ever played this game.



“There’s weather in Frankfurt- that’s why we are delayed” the woman next to me is explaining to her husband in the seat next to me. ‘There’s weather in Frankfurt’… that’s exactly what she said and I beamed. I’ve never heard that phrase before, I assume it’s a cultural thing but perhaps it’s just personal. I took the phrase and packed it away with all the other oddities I’ve picked up along the way. I wonder whether I will ever use it now myself, the way that for years now I’ve gestured ‘come here’ with palm down rather than up, or bowed my head if I have to step across people’s legs, or taken money from people with both hands. All cultural quirks I’ve adopted slowly over time that have made themselves part of my manner.

“There’s weather in Frankfurt.”- and there was.

The first jolt of turbulence flipped my stomach. The clouds were thick and I couldn’t see the wings of the plane through the grey. The plane shook and the clouds broke and Frankfurt appeared beneath us. Why is it that when you fly through a cloud the windows don’t get wet if clouds are made of rain? The water droplets pattered onto the windows and wings of the plane as we made our decent but up there, in the thick of it, my window had been bone dry.

As we taxied in to position I wiped the smear from my forehead off the window and put my lipstick stained water glass in my bag beside my book, removing all trace of myself from that spot. I was late, but not worryingly so- the people ahead of me would miss their connection, but I would just make it.

The next plane would be much, much smaller, fighting through the clouds to take us on to our final destination, Basel Switzerland.  While here on business participating in a fundraising event hosted by renowned artist  and social justice advocate Alfredo Jaar, and indeed the duration of this trip, I would be inhabiting that strange state of being where you are both yourself and something else.

Representing a charitable organisation in public is like wearing a costume of political, ethical and academic ideals. It’s still you inside and the costume should fit but you’re still playing a part, fulfilling a role- play-acting.  

Enough for now, the house is waking on my second day here and I need to get back into character.


Tuesday, 12 August 2014

What kind of ship will never sink? A Friendship. BAHAHAHAHA



I have never really been very good at making friends. I am prickly and sullen and presume that people find me abrasive and annoying when I first meet them. I have never been comfortable in big groups, even when I know the people there, and have never enjoyed socialising in the same way as others I have known. I give off a strange first impression- one that does not usually tally with who I am once you get to know me, which I think is a result of social awkwardness and a juxtaposed need to please people, or purposely seek their disapproval. I was not popular at school, am an only child used to my own company, grew up as an expat in a small village, enjoyed solo pursuits such as reading and playing the piano to my cat and generally kept my self to my self in most things. I have moved from place to place giving me a perfect excuse for not having the gaggle of friends from school or college that most people do and I am fiercely close to my family, regardless of our lack of numbers and counterparts my own age. I have never been a lonely person, enjoying the company of others when it suites me and being perfectly happy spending the majority of my time alone.



However, despite my efforts and determination to be friendless, a few gems have forced their way through, into my bubble and into my heart. I do not have big gangs of friends who used to hang out together as kids or a community of peers who have liked and respected me all my life. I am a person who has few true friends, but those I do have make me feel like the luckiest, most blessed person in the world. I seem to succeed in securing a friend or two from each moment in my life, most of who will never meet one another or have occasion to share with one another their impressions of me, and yet have supported me through both the hardest and most joyous occasions of my life. If you are reading this and wondering if you are amongst this motley crew then please think no further- if you are even asking that question then you probably are, for I fail miserably in interactions with ‘acquaintances’ and am actually frightened of most people my own age.


Although I have managed to maintain a handful of relationships from my island, which are refreshed and renewed on my bi-annual visits home, there is only one person who I can, hand on heart, say has known me all my life and is still by my side. Hollie Cassar might as well be my sister. She has two sisters of her own so perhaps she would disagree with this, but in a life of constant movement and change, with the exception of my family, Hollie is unique in her constancy in my life. When we were younger we were forced together by our families and we raged against it for most of our childhood, but in adulthood fate brought us together again and she has become my most forgiving and fierce ally. We happened to live together at a time when I failed myself greatly and became a person I barely recognised. I could not stand my own company and looking in the mirror actually hurt, Hollie stood by me through my self-destruction and then, when I was done, she picked up all the broken pieces and put me back together again with no judgement, no hesitation, no question. For this and so much more I love her in a way no-one will ever understand.



Fate has smiled on me in my friendships for although not numerous they are strong and remarkable- each in it’s own way. I have been fortunate enough to make friends with people who I grow to love, but who I have always respected and admired. Through life on the island and 6th form in London to Cambodia and University and beyond and even within my own, wonderfully eccentric, family, I have managed to forge relationships with people who motivate and inspire me every single day. Another quality that most of my friendships share is that I seem to create the most unlikely of couplings- I am spiritually tied to several people to who I could not be more different and whose regard for me is a surprise to others. Be it differences based on age, culture, personality or interests, politics or theology I have friends as diverse as the world itself and I am pleased to say that I have grown on people who initially did not hold me in particularly high regard.



I have missed my friends while I have been away in Madagascar, and this has prompted me to indulge in a little self-reflection. I have always considered myself quite hard to like, difficult to get to know and I have never been part of a big group of friends, so it has been easy for me to see myself as a loner but the only person I am lying to on this score is myself. I am surrounded, all over the world, not by gaggles of semi-friends and associations of convenience, but by a small group of individuals who shine like golden beacons in my life. I have friends who would quite literally fly half way round the world to help me and share experiences with me, who continue to keep me in mind, even when I am far far out of sight and who consider the challenges and inconsistencies in my personality to be quirks and endearing follies rather than the cavernous failings and disappointments I see in myself.

There are no people in all the world for whom I have higher regard than my friends, no heroes I admire more than those I have the privilege of calling my comrades. People whose work, attitudes, convictions and strength of spirit I aspire to in every decision that I make and who have lifted me up through their own achievements and examples to become the person I am. Every single one of these people has changed and shaped who I am and the things I have done and without each of them I would be a lesser person.



So, to those of you who have shared my life with me, who have filled my heart and my head, who have been brave enough to challenge me and gracious enough to be challenged by me, to all who have shared memories of experiences both incredible and mundane, I thank you.

I thank you for keeping me company as I have grown, for eating the endless food I cook when nervous, for picking me up off the floor of dust roads in distant lands, lecture theatres, hospital rooms and the occasional nightclub. Thank you for indulging my childishness and visiting farms and zoos with me and for allowing me to go overboard on every celebration. Thank you for watching films with me and drinking tea with me and talking with me through many days and nights.

Thank you for giving me second chances and for allowing me to come back to you after long absences. Thank you for looking past my age or my politics or my nervous disposition and choosing to stand by me anyway. Thank you for judging me less harshly than I judge myself, for sharing with me your wisdom and light and, often and most gloriously, your families and homes. Thank you for knowing me and loving me anyway, for constantly surprising me with your kindness and for keeping me in your thoughts when I melt away into new lives. Thank you for accepting my foibles and those of my family.

Thank you for being my friends.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-Mr2pmuad4 


Saturday, 19 July 2014

Sad Times...


I wanted to put a little prologue ahead of these three forthcoming blogs, both to give them a little context and also to explain my motivation for writing them. As most of you who know me will already be aware I have set up and now run an orphanage in Madagascar and, because of both my personality and the intimate nature of the project, the children here have become like family to me and I love them all dearly. I know this is a concept some people cannot understand- that children with whom I have no relation and that I know only through work can actually become so dear to me. I can’t explain it and feel no need to justify it other than to say that my entire life in a country which is not my own, revolves around these children who do not have anyone of their own and who rely on the staff in this house as though we were their kin. The kids know me. They respond to my presence and they fill a hole in my life where all the people I have left behind to take on this project once were in my day to day existence.

Last week I lost one of these children very suddenly. This blog is a kind of free therapy I guess. After a week that passed in a blur of tears I never want to forget this experience, which will undoubtedly change me forever. Sadly, it is not the first time I have had to deal with the death of a child through my work. While volunteering ta an orphanage for HIV+ children in Cambodia I lost 5 wonderful, beautiful, inspirational children to the disease. I never wrote about what it was like then, to deal with death in such a physical way. In our culture the aftermath of death is hidden from us by professionals and servicemen who ensure that the brutal, physical aspects of dealing with the dead are hidden from the fragile and vulnerable family and friends. Many of us never even see a dead body let alone touch one and we certainly don’t dwell on the mechanics behind death.

In other cultures though, this is not so. The body is not feared and the family participate in all aspects of death. It can be gruesome and painful and cruel but it can also be cathartic and healing and help you to come to terms with what has happened. In Cambodia I carried the body of a child to a pagoda in a taxi and then stood in the courtyard and watched as he burned before my eyes. I was unprepared and I remember feeling dirty and disrespectful at the banality of it all. With the following 4 deaths in the orphanage I said goodbye in my own way but was not physically present for the cremations. Last week has made me reflect deeply on my experiences with death. I was forced to share a close proximity and a practical attachment to the body of my Generick, which some people may find uncomfortable and strange. This blog has not been written for shock-factor or designed to distress anyone and it isn’t meant to inspire pity for me, or judgement on the Malagasy customs related to death. It is only meant for me as a record of my experiences and a self reflection on how I felt during this time.

DAY 1 –Monday 7th July 2014

Generick Edwino Joface. 2/5/13- 7/7/14

The cemetery here is oddly peaceful. After the madness and incessant noise that exists where I live, the abandoned silence of this graveside seems tranquil and calm. Sitting in the sunshine here in the quiet on my own I feel grounded and at peace- close to Generick and able to give him the one on one attention which is so rarely an option back at the house. I thought the grave would wrack me with grief- bring me back to a place of guilt and sadness and disbelief but it doesn’t. It allows me the time to breathe, it is becoming like a haven for me where I allow myself time to just sit and be with Genos and not feel guilty about it.

When people talk about death they make it sound so final. As though death is the end of a journey and after that all the activity just stops. And I guess for some people it is like that- if the death is at the end of a long life, or a drawn out illness or brings to an end some kind of status quo. But for us death was just the beginning. It came suddenly and without warning, it interrupted an ambling existence and forced us into unnatural action. It was like waking up in a nightmare that doesn’t have an end where all you want to do is curl up in a ball and close your eyes but death is dragging you back to actions that only serve to remind you of what is no longer there.

On Sunday the 6th of July 2014 some of the children in my house had a dodgy tummy. By this I mean that a couple of them threw up their rice (not a totally unheard of occurrence with 11 children under 2 living in one home). No-one had a fever and there were no reports of diarrhea and the children were in good spirits and hadn’t lost their thirsts or appetites so we chucked it down to overeating or a mild tummy upset and 6 adults settled down with clear consciences for a trouble free sleep.

On Monday morning there were no new complaints of vomiting and still no diarrhea from the kids rooms, so I packed my work bag and headed into the city to do errands and paperwork for the day. I checked my phone battery, as always, packed up the car and headed off to a busy day. By lunchtime I was knackered having been running round town doing paperwork and errands and after lunch I dropped our volunteer Will off at the prison for his weekly English class. I went into the women’s quarter where I work at 15:00 and collected our students and while I was there the mums who have babies living with us chatted with me and asked for updates on their kids. “Everyone is totally fine.” I replied. Because they were.

At 15:30 I left the prison to do some photocopies for the volunteer and on the way to the shop my phone rang. It was Brian. Generick was sick at the house. He had just done one very bad bowel movement and was lethargic and chilly and wouldn’t drink any water. I put my foot down and headed back to the house where Brian and Sylvie, one of my nannies, were waiting with Generick.

As soon as I saw him I knew something was very wrong. His eyes were fixed and unfocussed and he had gone very pale- even perhaps slightly blue, and he was cold. My stomach dropped and my blood turned to ice in my veins. I slammed my foot down on the accelerator and turned toward the hospital, my hand on the horn and my rickety old Catrell doing 80km/h on African roads. Sylvie caught my eye in the rear-view mirror; “I’m scared” she whispered, “Me too” I replied.

We arrived at the hospital at 16:15 and my social worker, Mme Fara, was there waiting for us. They took Generick into the emergency room and started ferrying lots of medical equipment in to him. They never like me in the room with them so I sat down outside with Sylvie and Brian- relieved to have reached the hospital and waiting for news. Mme Fara came out at 16:25 and looked at me, struggling to find words. I communicate with all my staff in French and we never use English in the house or in the office but I could tell she was trying to speak to me so that only I would understand- “He’s dead” she said.

My ears started ringing and the blood rushed to my head- I felt like I was underwater. She lead me away down the hall and I can’t remember what she said. I kept thinking the doctor was going to come out and say he was sick but he should be fine- I couldn’t hear what Fara was saying. The doctor came out and started talking to me and I didn’t hear anything he said either- I had to ask him if Generick was ok and then he confirmed that he was dead. He had been dead when we got there- there was nothing they could do.

I didn’t understand. I couldn’t get it straight in my head. When I checked in after lunch everyone had been fine. Now it was 16:30 and someone was dead. It didn’t make sense and I couldn’t think straight. I realised everyone was looking at me- I didn’t know why. Brian nudged me and I remembered that I am the boss- the children are my responsibility- they were waiting for me to tell them what to do next. My mind went blank and all I could think of were the 15 children still at home and how quickly Generick had deteriorated and I was filled with terror at the thought that someone else might have the same thing. I called a family friend with a 4x4 and asked her to meet me at the house and I called my ex-land lady and asked if we could stay in town, next to the hospital, for a couple of days.

I don’t remember the drive home and I barely remember telling the staff what had happened but I think one of them fainted and I have a heavily pregnant nanny who I remember being worried about. I must not have given them much time to come to terms with the news however, because I was already piling children, babies, mattresses and staff into the cars by 17:00. The next hour or so is a blur as all 15 children were whisked off to visit the best doctor in Diego. In the background, through the shadows of dusk, Generick was moved to the morgue.

The morgue at the Military Hospital is really just a garage with a concrete plinth in the centre. The cobwebs are so old they look like comedy Halloween decorations and the floor is littered with empty formaldehyde bottles and old catheters and syringes. The breeze blows through the broken windows and whips up the dust while the dead leaves crunch under foot. Generick was to be been placed on a stretcher on the plinth. Someone passed me a towel from the kids’ bags so that I could wipe the dust and rainwater puddles off the stretcher before we put him down. Someone asked me for money for candles and I handed over a 10,000 Ar note (an obscene amount of money here), but for the first time no one argued with me about it and someone, probably a nanny, slipped it out of my hand and disappeared into the darkness.

I stepped out of the garage to see what was happening with the other children but someone had already taken them home to our old house nearby and Brian and Will had gone with them. I must have been gone longer than I thought. Mme Fara was trying to explain to me that Generick needed to be washed but that everyone was afraid and no one wanted to do it. I said I would do it and wandered back into the garage but she gently grasped my arm and said that for me to do it wouldn’t be proper (because I am a woman and I’m not his family). She said that her husband was coming in to do it for us as soon as he found someone to watch her children. They asked for money for soap and someone held out the change from the candles. The candles would burn without pause from now until Wednesday evening when the body went to ground and Generick would not be left alone for a single moment from now until I would be led away from the graveside in two days time.

Someone whispered to me that the bathing of the body was about to begin and that we needed to prepare for the next step. We had brought his best clothes in with us and the women were busy taking off all the buttons and elastic, which could not go into the coffin with him according to local custom. I was sent to the pharmacy where I struggled to explain to the military pharmacist that I wanted a half litre bottle of formaldehyde, two syringes, a catheter and some surgical tape and cotton. I stepped back into the garage and the special nurse who comes to do drips on the really difficult kids was waiting there for me. He struggled to find a vein and I stood there, leaning over Generick, shining my mobile phone light on his arms for the nurse until he nodded at me to stop and those of us who knew Genos were shepherded outside.

Later on someone told me that they had finished the formaldehyde procedure before plugging his nose and ears with cotton wool and re-wrapping the body in the sheet. Fara and I weren’t there for this as we had already left for the prison, where his mum was incarcerated for petty theft. Her son had been dead for over two hours now and she still hadn’t been told. We were allowed in to speak to the guard but they wouldn’t let us talk to Caroline. They instructed us to come back the following day at 6am and speak to her then. We asked permission for her to come with us to see him and say goodbye and the chief guard granted us one-hour sympathy leave the next day.

I dropped Fara back off at the Military Hospital where her husband was waiting with three of my nannies. They would sit vigil with the body all night while I went home to survey the other children carefully for signs of illness.

When I got back most of my staff were waiting for me. They needed me to say something reassuring. Women twice my age with husbands and families, experience and wisdom, were looking to me for comfort. I have never felt so young or so unqualified for the task before me in all my life. I sat on the floor and all of their eyes burned holes in my skin. I told them what the doctor had said- that a violent initiation of a particularly nasty gastro enteritis, which would in the coming days be labelled an epidemic and be all over the news, had sent Generick’s small body into shock and that we had done all we could by bringing him in to hospital immediately and that his death was not their fault. I thanked them for all their work and for helping beyond their shifts and duties and said that whoever wanted to was welcome to stay and sleep with us and some of them started to cry. There was a silence and they seemed to be waiting for more and so, despite my own doubts but knowing their devoutness here, I prayed with them. I felt like I was reading lines out in a play as I thanked God for giving us the time we had had with Generick, for allowing us to know him and love him- I asked that he keep Genos safe now that he was with Him and that He help Generick’s mother have the strength to cope with the mountain of grief I was going to heap upon her the next day. When I was done I felt like a cheater- I felt silly. But the nannies and house staff looked calmer and muttered short prayers in Gasy before announcing the universal ‘Amen’.

At 22:00 I rushed Eugenie into the hospital after a nasty bout of diarrhea and she was admitted for fluids and observation. Meanwhile at the house the bug really took hold in the baby room and we began a long night of sickness and worry, trips to the hospital and minute observation. No one slept that night. I had staff in the hospital, in the morgue and in the house and we all had our eyes on our children non-stop, holding our breaths, until 5am when the sun broke through the darkness and another day began. 

Generick on Mother's Day. Eating cake.



DAY 2- Tuesday 8th July 2014-07-17


The weight of the day was already heavy upon me by the time dawn gave way to morning. No-one had slept, everyone was exhausted and in shock and the frenzied action of the day before had melted into a stunned silence. The children who had suffered the most during the night seemed to be improving by morning, which we gratefully accepted as a blessing on a day which did not need to be made harder on the team by continued worry for the other children. Even Eugenie at the hospital had improved and was not giving the doctors any particular cause for worry. I was still in my clothes from the day before as I crawled back into the car and headed to the morgue.

Fara and the others were already up when I got there. Candles still burning, they had sat vigil with Genos all through the cold night, huddled together on a wall outside the morgue with the doors thrown open to the night so that he would not feel alone. The duties of the day were divided among the staff with an ease which only comes from numbness of routine. Fara and I left Generick with a nanny and got back into the car.

The prison is only a 5 minute drive from the hospital, but time seemed to stretch and warp as I drove ahead. Having had a whole 13 hours to process what was happening the grief I felt for Generick was being squashed by a black rock in the pit of my stomach, which came from the prospect of the task ahead. When we parked outside the prison Fara and I sat in silence for a while before we managed to heave ourselves out of the car and toward the prison gates. I didn’t need to ask her what she was feeling and she didn’t need to hear me say that the hour ahead would be perhaps the most difficult of our lives. Waiting for Caroline in a private room I would have given everything I had to be someone else, to be somewhere else, and fear leaked into my bones and froze my blood.

How do you tell a woman that her child is dead?

Would I have found it easier if I had been older? More experienced? Trained? Local?

There are no words to soften that blow. How is she expected to understand that in less that 14 hours her beautiful, giggling, chubby 14 month old, who only days before had been trying desperately to take his first steps with her on visiting day, was dead and cold and would never come back to her.

How was I supposed to explain that, having told her that her child would be better off with us, safer in my home than living in the prison, I had then allowed him to die in the back of my car, in the arms of another woman.

She knew as soon as she saw us. I was so worried that shock and grief would mean she struggled to understand the news I was giving her, but I need not have concerned myself with this. She had been called to a private room at 6am, only to find Fara and I waiting for her with exhausted, smileless faces. She knew.

She listened in silence as I went through the events of the day before- I spoke quietly and slowly as Fara translated my words in a subdued whisper- a murmur of foreign sounds relaying my impossible message. As we spoke the guard at the door and a friend who had been allowed into the room with her both began to cry, but not Caroline. Frozen she sat beside me, body motionless beneath my hands, her eyes fixed on the wall ahead. I felt as though my heart would break and hot tears welled up in my eyes but I knew I must not cry- that I shouldn’t infringe on her grief with my guilt and a sadness I felt unentitled to.

In the deafening silence that followed I asked whether she had understood what I had said. She remained motionless and her grief expanded and filled the room. It was suffocating and heavy and awful. Silent tears escaped her eyes and she whispered his name and started to shudder. She was rigid and shaking- and then she stopped and looked at me and asked me to take her to her son.

Genos and him mummy on an early prison visit. 

We waited almost an hour for the guard who was supposed to accompany us to show up to meet us and when she did she blurted something out at Fara and disappeared again. When I asked Fara what she had said I was disgusted to hear that, despite the grief-stricken, sobbing mother in her care, waiting impatiently to be allowed to see her dead son, the guard had popped out for a coffee and rice cake because she had arrived to work late and hadn’t had time for her breakfast. My exhausted body and frazzled mind wanted to follow her down the street screaming. But instead I hung my head and waited.

 By the time we reached the hospital we had managed to track down some of Generick’s father’s family, as Caroline had asked us to, and one of Genos’ uncles joined Caroline to view the body. Up until this point she had been quite subdued but when she saw Generick’s small body all wrapped up she finally lost her composure. I held her up with one of my nannies as her body went limp and heavy. She buried her head in the sheet that covered him and I was worried she might faint. She straightened up just long enough for Fara and the uncle to unwrap Generick’s head and shoulders and reveal his beautiful face. As they uncovered him the wave of formaldehyde hit us- it crawled into your nose and scratched your throat and stung your eyes until it filled the whole room with acidity. But I couldn’t react to it because at that moment the whole extent of Caroline’s grief came pouring over us as she kissed her son’s face and called his name.

I held her up and she leaned on me as she cried and I noticed that most people had walked down the lane away from us- I think her sadness and the sting of the formaldehyde was too much to bear. The people in the room had all started to cry, and even Fara had dropped the professional façade and had turned away, her back heaving with sobs. All the shock and sadness and anger that I had been fighting since Generick died, in order that I might do my part as the director and take care of the rest of the children and the staff, suddenly became too much for me and I started to cry. I tried to be quiet, not to allow Caroline to be offended by my tears, but instead she noticed I was crying and turned her body toward me and slipped her arms around me till she was hugging me back. Her empathy toward me only made me feel worse and I struggled to regain my composure so that we could both kiss Generick goodbye for the last time and wrap him up again.

Tuesdays are Fady in Madagascar. Things that are ‘fady’ are forbidden, unlucky or cursed. Tuesday is a bad luck day here and there was no question of burying my beautiful boy on a Tuesday. It would have marred the celebrations of his life and been offensive and disrespectful to all the people who knew and loved him and the culture in which I live. Having said that, we had already spent almost 16 hours occupying the only ‘morgue’ room in the hospital and we were under pressure to vacate the room. And so, with the prison guard making stupid jokes and laughing, the uncle looking uncomfortable and Caroline crying we laid Generick’s body across them in the back of the car and drove back to the old address of the orphanage, where Genos had spent many happy months growing into a wonderful young boy.

When we arrived everyone melted out of the garden and gave us room- I had phoned ahead to let them know we were coming. The uncle passed me Generick’s body and I carried him into the Garage and laid him down on a reed mat and covered him with a blanket that his mother had brought.

Caroline and her son. Photos were taken at the express request of Caroline- it felt really awkward to me but how could I deny her anything at this point. 
Over the next hour I sat on the floor next to Caroline and held her as she cried. She had chosen, to all of our surprise, to have him buried in Antanamitarana- the village where we have built our new house. She said she had no family here and that she wanted him to be near us. I wonder if she knows how much that meant to me and my staff, who were all beaten down with guilt and shame.

The guard took Caroline home and then the people began to arrive. I was dazed and tired and overwhelmed by the sheer number of people who came to pay their respects to Generick and to me and my staff. Countless members of Generick’s Father’s family came- people I had never seen or heard of while Genos had been alive, as well as the entire staff from the Ministry of Population offices, UNICEF, the Antanamitarana Mayor and social work team, my friends- who brought flowers from their gardens and fussed around me. I greeted officials, diplomats and neighbours and answered the same questions over and over.

In between the people and the questions and the grief there was a lot of planning and work. We had to prepare paperwork relating to the death and organise teams of workmen to dig the grave and get a coffin made and feed the people sitting vigil (which was by this time more than a dozen) and preparing the refreshments and ceremonial offerings for those who would sit with him through the night.

By the time night came I was in a complete daze. I don’t even remember going to the restaurant with Brian and Will. All I know is that I hadn’t eaten since the day before at lunchtime and the cheese on the pizza was choking me. We bumped into people we know and I had to say hello and suddenly the normalcy of the dinner was in such juxtaposition to the pain in my chest that I had to leave and go home.

By this time most of the other children were feeling better but Melodie had been refusing to eat since the sickness began. I took her out for an omelette in the hope that she would be distracted by the outing and eat something, but she wasn’t fooled and I wasn’t in a position to cajole her. Sitting with her alone in the gargotte calmed me though and Brian, Will and I arrived home at the same time.

All day I had been trying to play the boss, the hostess, the coordinator and people swam in and out of my field of vision. But that night, oblivious to the family members and nannies sitting vigil I lay down on the ground next to Generick’s tiny body and I cried big wracking sobs which hurt my soul. Brian brought me a sheet and a pillow and I fell asleep with one hand on Generick’s arm and tears cascading down my face. For that one hour- although there were perhaps 8 people watching, I was alone with Generick and I was releasing all that I had been unable to throughout the day.

I woke up on the cold garage floor and looked around at those still sitting vigil. I left them to their coffee, rum and card games and drifted back into the house. I sat for a while in the baby room and watched their little tummies rise and fall as they slept- all totally fine now, and all oblivious to the sadness of the day. They snuffled and fidgeted in their sleep and as they did I felt calmer and stronger and when I finally joined Brian and Will on the mattresses in the office I knew I would be able to face anything the next day had to throw at me. I was determined to give Generick a respectful and appropriate send off and I would not distract from his memory with my selfishness and ego.

An activity i did with him for Mother's Day.